Double Overhead Mush Burger – A wave that is twice the size of a surfer, containing heaps of foam created by the wave had broken previous to this one.
Better than no barrel at all, but still, you took the doggy door. Doggy Door – When you pull into a barrel and you can’t make the clean exit so you just either punch your way through the top of the lip (actually called the cat flap, but often interchangeable), or you straighten up and let the lip close behind you. Pressure dings often happen on the top of your board from the weight of the balls of your feet pressing down on it. The main types of dings are: cracks, which occur from hitting the board against something solid, be it rocks or the pavement, and pressure dings, which are more like big round dents. There are some people that do that, but we prefer the type that surf with their boards. It is almost impossible to keep a board perfectly undamaged unless you just stick it on the wall for everyone to look at. Glassed surfboards are more delicate than they look. Cat Flap – When you’re in a barrel and you see no way out so you just punch through the top of the lip to make sure it doesn’t eat you up. The words choppy and messy are often used interchangeably to refer to the same thing: waves not breaking as we like them to, or as they shoulda woulda coulda. Winds mess the wave up, stopping it from breaking the way god intended (smoothly and cleanly). High onshore winds and a short wave period make choppy surf. The waves are trickier to catch and usually shorter, bumpier rides. Choppy – When the surf is choppy, the waves aren’t breaking cleanly. On a hollow, barrelling wave, a good bottom turn would get you deep under the lip. On a fatter wave a good bottom turn can get you flying up towards the lip, generating more speed as you go and readying you for another manoeuvre at the top. You drop in, pop up, fly down the wave, and then you need to make a nice turn to get into the next best position on the wave, which varies depending on the type of wave and its shape. They say you can tell everything there is to know of a man by his bottom turn. Bottom Turn – This is one of, if not THE most important turn in surfing. No one really likes boots, but when you’ve got feet so numb they feel like they’re going to fall off, or once you’ve stepped on sea urchins a few times, you’ll probably start to appreciate them a little more. Reef boots also protect you from sea urchins and other dangers to your feet. In hotter countries surfers might also wear boots to protect against the sharp reefs they’re surfing.
Boots / Booties – Watermen wear neoprene boots to keep their feet from going numb in the cold water. When you’re ready for bombs like that you won’t need us anyway. Don’t worry, Freewave Surf Academy will never take people out in that sort of surf. Bad bombs engulf you, landing heavily on your head and then they suck you into the washing machine for what feels like hours. The idea is to get as deep as possible, but not so deep that the bomb sucks you into oblivion. When you see a bomb in action you find yourself shouting ‘YeeeeeThe best bombs are steep firing barrels. What’s the worst that could happen? Bomb – A huge, heavy wave that explodes in its own power, blasting huge shoots of water everywhere. Maybe you don’t even need to take the legs off. When your surfboard is dinged or snapped in two (it happens every now and then, but never under the safe guidance of Freewave Surf Academy), don’t be afraid to give the ironing board a go, or maybe even take the legs off the kitchen table and have a drash. Afterwards he probably said: ‘Dude that board was sketchy’, or something like that. Board – Not just a surfboard! ‘Board’ can mean any type of wave riding instrument, including body board, surfboard, SUP, and many, many more.
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